The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.
|Mount||Probe X Offset||Probe Y Offset|
|Custom Mount V3||-42||-10|
|Creality Official Mount||-44||-6|
Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)
Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.
[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.
For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance
If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.
If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.
Older Build (V1.3.5b)
If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build
What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?
- The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.
For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.
For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here
Some UI customizations the community has added
Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
- Turn on and off display during printing
- PID Autotune Menu
- Change Filament menu
- Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
- __h__m Time Format Setting
And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
Instead of adding the
M420 S1 command above. You can replace it with
G29 (Place it after G28).
G29 basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.
Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
Steps to produce a good leveling
- Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
- Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
- After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
- Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
- Done and start printing!
- Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.
What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.
If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing
Z-axis won’t budge
Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.
Black Screen of Death after flashed
Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord
Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y
Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.
Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.
Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.
Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.
Setting is not saved
Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.
Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.
Motor making noises and freeze during print.
This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.
Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.
Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.
Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
Github Repository is here.
If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set
default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality in platform.ini
How to donate?
What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/download/32